The CF Bedford Rebuild Begins

Part 7: The rear section

Starting at the back again, first up I've replaced the lower rear inner panel, the original Bedford one had rusted out in the middle (behind the plate area) as they do and was easier to replace the whole panel, plus removing the old one allowed the sand blaster to get inside and around the other panels.

The rear floor section also had a lot of pitted rust so was easier to also replace. This first picture doesn't really show it but I've welded a bar across the width of the van and replaced the rear floor panel.

In the second picture I've folded up the rear panel and am test fitting it for fit, note the exhaust cut outs in the lower panel and number plate recess marked out in the rear panel, also the gussets (original) to keep the rear pillars from twisting, not that I really need it as I'll be adding another set of my own pillars (top section of the door).
Third picture shows the very bottom panel tacked in and the framing for the bottom section, including for the recessed number plate holder.

I wanted the rear door to lift up (gullwing) but the width of the normal doors together was to wide, so I decided to fit the side door in the back and cut it in half (horizontal).
Originally I planned to use the whole side door frame out of another CF van (I even cut it out), but the frame was so rusty it wasn't worth the effort putting it in so I made some pillars, panels and a door skin for the back of the van.

I started with the original side door (removed the outer skin) but noticed the frame actually tapered, so out with the square and cut-off wheel and proceeded to make it square. The frame had to be extended 25mm so as to become square.
I then made a skin with rounded corners which fitted quite well if I do say so myself (those corners were tough though).
I then strengthened by adding a 3mm plate welded across inside top mainly for the hinge, this door didn't really need it but the side door will because of it's length.
The next part was to hinge it.

I wanted a hidden hinge; the old school piano hinge was out of the question as since I had no gutters the rubber must work without obstruction.

After several hours of serious brain straining, this is what I came up with (well this is the parts ready to be welded together).

The second photo in this bunch is the 25x25x3 tubing that completes the hinge, the tube has cut outs and nuts welded into it for the hinge mounts. As for the hinge, all holes were drilled 3mm bigger than the bolts thread size - the door adjustment. The bar (tube) fits nicely inside the inner gutter or whatever it's called. I was very lucky I was able to do this with the roof off.
The third photo shows all the panels tacked in and also shows the inner bracing for the door frame. The tail light holes had also been removed here

To my amazement the door hinged properly the first time, no alterations were needed. Mind you it did take me several attempts making mock templates out of cardboard before coming up with this version (the serious brain straining).

Next comes the inner door catches.
I hunted the wreckers for some tidy catches, was going to use the after market Bear catch but figured there had to be something here ready to use.
Ended up finding some catches off a Renault, silly me didn't get what model it was though. Good thing I grabbed 7 of them. They were a lot less work to fit and tidier than most out there.
The door closes (without rubber) with your little finger, haven't got the new rubbers yet so final checks will have to wait until I get them. The rear door (all the doors) will be keyless entry, there is plenty of room in the door so fitting later shouldn't be a problem.

With the rear door hinged, it was time to weld in the rest of the rear panels, of course everything gets checked for fit and tacked then rechecked before being welded (which is a slow process so as not to warp the panels).
The roof is still only sitting in place here. The recessed number plate holder is only sitting in place also; the number plate light holes have been cut out and tested.
In this picture doesn't even look roof chopped, but it is, four inches.

Compare these two images, the image on the left is tacked in place while the image on the right has had fully welded, grounded and a little bit of hammer and filing as the rear section of roof is now welded also.
Amazing what different colours does to your mind set.

High stoplight has been added but I don't like it, is to wide for my liking so will be redone.

Still to come on the back is the towbar cut out (why? I don't know sheesh), tail lights (led), maybe solenoid so is keyless, or cable or something to make it open from drivers seat. I don't have to have reversing lights or high stop brake light but I will include them, just in case they change the rules at a later date. (They did)